By Prof. Juan Manuel Gómez Encarnación, City Historian
In this intriguing two-part article, city chronicler Prof. Juan Manuel Gómez Encarnación shares the charming history of one of Vallarta’s most enchanting locations. Translation by Deborah Buley.
As though the jungle of the mountains had extended a verdant arm to stroke Vallarta, the island of the Río Cuale surfaced in the heart of the city. This beautiful island, the habitat of tranquility and the native flora and fauna of our beloved tourist destination, was formed by Mother Nature during the 1926 tornado, which performed a propitious operation leaving the heart of the river magically exposed.
These days when noise and haste permeate daily life, Vallarta has an ace up its sleeve for those who love serenity and excellent cuisine. This isla-corazón (heart-island) of the old, authentic Vallarta is a showcase for gastronomy and local culture.
Embraced by the banks of the Rio Cuale, the island is located between downtown and the Emiliano Zapata neighborhood, and can be reached by three fixed concrete bridges and three wooden suspension bridges. Upon crossing any one of them, visitors find themselves in a naturally charming and personable atmosphere, whether you wish to savor the rich dishes on offer, sample a good wine, read a book or simply stroll among the lush and ancient trees.
Cradling a range of beautiful restaurants, the Centro Cultural Cuale, an archaeology museum and an assortment of local Mexican artisans, the Cuale Island always welcomes with open arms locals and visitors alike.
The Cuale Island is a long and narrow strip of land of just over two hectares. It is densely forested by species such as the guamuchil, rubber tree, parota, amapa, salat or fig, mango and bamboo, among others. There are also many garden plants and bushes. The green hues of nature dominate, providing a fresh climate.
It is common to find green parakeets, squirrels, herons and many different kinds of birds among its wildlife. If you are lucky you can see otters playing in the river. Being on the island gives you the feeling of having one foot in the city and the other in the jungle.
CHRONOLOGY
Physically the island has transformed and undergone various uses over time. What follows is a synopsis of the changes that have shaped the island as we know it today.
Twenties. By word of mouth we know that the Cuale Island was initially formed by a great flood caused by the tornado of October 1926. The river’s water level was so high that it burst its banks, flooding the town. Two accounts of the event are cited follow:
[…] The Rio Cuale used to be a single channel. During the 1926 floods, when the water reached Calle Libertad, it made two channels and formed the island… (Manuel Andrade Beltrán, Foros Revivir La Historia, año 1999).
[…] In that year (1926), on a stormy October night, a tornado sprang from the minerals of the Rio Cuale and brought with it trees uprooted by the force of the wind, leaving in its wake a deafening noise and destroying everything it could. This is how all the mango and banana orchards that used to be on the other side of the river were destroyed. This phenomenon caused the river water to breach its normal course and flood Lupe and Victoria Ruelas’ pens as well as the shop and warehouses of don José Baumgarten Escudrero, which were full of wood, leather and other merchandise; everything was destroyed. The water began to enter the town in an alarming manner; there had already been 15 long days and nights of torrential rain … (Catalina Montes de Oca, Vallarta en mis recuerdos, p.110).
Thirties. During 1932, thanks to an initiative implemented by Mayor Christopher Ruelas with the support of neighbors, the first wooden suspension bridge was installed across the Rio Cuale. Doña Margarita Mantecón de Garza put it this way:
[…] Any bridge that crossed the river was washed away by rising water levels, and so, to stop those on the other side of the river from being isolated during the rainy season, City Council, with the cooperation of the town, built a magnificent hanging bridge that was inaugurated on April 5, 1932.
The Forties. Manuel Andrade Beltrán left the following account concerning some of the developments that took place on the Cuale Island during this decade in Foros Revivir la Historia, (1999).
[…] With regard to drinking water, young men carried it in buckets balanced on each end of a pole, while girls placed pitchers on their heads cushioned by material that helped to distribute the weight. It was pleasant to see them march to the river and cross it by foot. There was a well we called ‘el Venero’. This well supplied water for the whole town. Some people made a business out of it. They attached wooden boxes on both sides of a donkey’s hind in which they put the buckets or pitchers. They placed a small gourd on top to stop the water from spilling. They sold the water to different clients.
[…] On some occasions the Rio Cuale grew so high that the two branches joined, damaging the bridge and knocking over the bars and beams. People then crossed in canoes. There were two men that I can remember who offered this service: Barajas y el Chocha.
The town and governments were concerned by the constant threat of the Rio Cuale’s swells. In 1946, the municipal government, lead by Teniente Coronel J. Encarnación Ahumada Alatorre, sought the help of Gral. Marcelino García Barragán, the governor of Jalisco, to build a retaining wall on the north bank of the river. “Las Memorias del Gobernador Marcelino García Barragán” (The Memoirs of Governor Marcelino García Barragán) from the library of Jalisco’s Historical Archive makes reference to this in the following fragment:
[…] In 1946 a 30-meter long screen was built on the north bank with the intention of stopping the river from flooding onto Calle Libertad
Doña Catalina Montes de Oca, in the work previously cited in “Mejoras materiales y obra social 1947” (Material Improvements and Social Work 1947) records the work undertaken by the City Council, and the continuation of this wall to contain the river water. On page 212, she writes the following:
[…] The Mayor in this year was Federico López Rivas. His term only lasted from January 1 to April 8 of the same year for political reasons. He was succeeded by J. Roberto Contreras Quintero until the end of the year.
In this short lapse of time, a retaining wall was built from the Guayparin tree until a few meters before the mouth of the Rio Cuale to avoid the problem of flooding when the river broke its banks. Also, a part of the malecon was leveled off in front of the post office.
To be continued …
Next week, Prof. Juan Manuel Gómez Encarnación will continue to relate the fascinating history of one of Vallarta’s most cherished treasures, taking us from 1950s to the present day.
In this intriguing two-part article, city chronicler Prof. Juan Manuel Gómez Encarnación shares the charming history of one of Vallarta’s most enchanting locations. Translation by Deborah Buley.
As though the jungle of the mountains had extended a verdant arm to stroke Vallarta, the island of the Río Cuale surfaced in the heart of the city. This beautiful island, the habitat of tranquility and the native flora and fauna of our beloved tourist destination, was formed by Mother Nature during the 1926 tornado, which performed a propitious operation leaving the heart of the river magically exposed.
These days when noise and haste permeate daily life, Vallarta has an ace up its sleeve for those who love serenity and excellent cuisine. This isla-corazón (heart-island) of the old, authentic Vallarta is a showcase for gastronomy and local culture.
Embraced by the banks of the Rio Cuale, the island is located between downtown and the Emiliano Zapata neighborhood, and can be reached by three fixed concrete bridges and three wooden suspension bridges. Upon crossing any one of them, visitors find themselves in a naturally charming and personable atmosphere, whether you wish to savor the rich dishes on offer, sample a good wine, read a book or simply stroll among the lush and ancient trees.
Cradling a range of beautiful restaurants, the Centro Cultural Cuale, an archaeology museum and an assortment of local Mexican artisans, the Cuale Island always welcomes with open arms locals and visitors alike.
The Cuale Island is a long and narrow strip of land of just over two hectares. It is densely forested by species such as the guamuchil, rubber tree, parota, amapa, salat or fig, mango and bamboo, among others. There are also many garden plants and bushes. The green hues of nature dominate, providing a fresh climate.
It is common to find green parakeets, squirrels, herons and many different kinds of birds among its wildlife. If you are lucky you can see otters playing in the river. Being on the island gives you the feeling of having one foot in the city and the other in the jungle.
CHRONOLOGY
Physically the island has transformed and undergone various uses over time. What follows is a synopsis of the changes that have shaped the island as we know it today.
Twenties. By word of mouth we know that the Cuale Island was initially formed by a great flood caused by the tornado of October 1926. The river’s water level was so high that it burst its banks, flooding the town. Two accounts of the event are cited follow:
[…] The Rio Cuale used to be a single channel. During the 1926 floods, when the water reached Calle Libertad, it made two channels and formed the island… (Manuel Andrade Beltrán, Foros Revivir La Historia, año 1999).
[…] In that year (1926), on a stormy October night, a tornado sprang from the minerals of the Rio Cuale and brought with it trees uprooted by the force of the wind, leaving in its wake a deafening noise and destroying everything it could. This is how all the mango and banana orchards that used to be on the other side of the river were destroyed. This phenomenon caused the river water to breach its normal course and flood Lupe and Victoria Ruelas’ pens as well as the shop and warehouses of don José Baumgarten Escudrero, which were full of wood, leather and other merchandise; everything was destroyed. The water began to enter the town in an alarming manner; there had already been 15 long days and nights of torrential rain … (Catalina Montes de Oca, Vallarta en mis recuerdos, p.110).
Thirties. During 1932, thanks to an initiative implemented by Mayor Christopher Ruelas with the support of neighbors, the first wooden suspension bridge was installed across the Rio Cuale. Doña Margarita Mantecón de Garza put it this way:
[…] Any bridge that crossed the river was washed away by rising water levels, and so, to stop those on the other side of the river from being isolated during the rainy season, City Council, with the cooperation of the town, built a magnificent hanging bridge that was inaugurated on April 5, 1932.
The Forties. Manuel Andrade Beltrán left the following account concerning some of the developments that took place on the Cuale Island during this decade in Foros Revivir la Historia, (1999).
[…] With regard to drinking water, young men carried it in buckets balanced on each end of a pole, while girls placed pitchers on their heads cushioned by material that helped to distribute the weight. It was pleasant to see them march to the river and cross it by foot. There was a well we called ‘el Venero’. This well supplied water for the whole town. Some people made a business out of it. They attached wooden boxes on both sides of a donkey’s hind in which they put the buckets or pitchers. They placed a small gourd on top to stop the water from spilling. They sold the water to different clients.
[…] On some occasions the Rio Cuale grew so high that the two branches joined, damaging the bridge and knocking over the bars and beams. People then crossed in canoes. There were two men that I can remember who offered this service: Barajas y el Chocha.
The town and governments were concerned by the constant threat of the Rio Cuale’s swells. In 1946, the municipal government, lead by Teniente Coronel J. Encarnación Ahumada Alatorre, sought the help of Gral. Marcelino García Barragán, the governor of Jalisco, to build a retaining wall on the north bank of the river. “Las Memorias del Gobernador Marcelino García Barragán” (The Memoirs of Governor Marcelino García Barragán) from the library of Jalisco’s Historical Archive makes reference to this in the following fragment:
[…] In 1946 a 30-meter long screen was built on the north bank with the intention of stopping the river from flooding onto Calle Libertad
Doña Catalina Montes de Oca, in the work previously cited in “Mejoras materiales y obra social 1947” (Material Improvements and Social Work 1947) records the work undertaken by the City Council, and the continuation of this wall to contain the river water. On page 212, she writes the following:
[…] The Mayor in this year was Federico López Rivas. His term only lasted from January 1 to April 8 of the same year for political reasons. He was succeeded by J. Roberto Contreras Quintero until the end of the year.
In this short lapse of time, a retaining wall was built from the Guayparin tree until a few meters before the mouth of the Rio Cuale to avoid the problem of flooding when the river broke its banks. Also, a part of the malecon was leveled off in front of the post office.
To be continued …
Next week, Prof. Juan Manuel Gómez Encarnación will continue to relate the fascinating history of one of Vallarta’s most cherished treasures, taking us from 1950s to the present day.
Rio Cuale Island: Only a step away from paradise
How do I get to the island?
The Rio Cuale Island is easily reachable by one of three hanging footbridges from downtown (Centro) or the Emiliano Zapata neighborhood. There is a fourth bridge from Gringo Gulch currently being constructed.
There are also two solid road bridges as well as the pedestrian-only continuation of the Malecon, which takes you along the waterfront.
What attractions are there on the island?
The island is home to the Centro Cultural Cuale, the archaeology museum, numerous quality artisan stalls and some of Vallarta’s finest restaurants, not to mention the habitat of many beautiful indigenous species of flora and fauna.
Step into the jungle in the heart of the city!
How do I get to the island?
The Rio Cuale Island is easily reachable by one of three hanging footbridges from downtown (Centro) or the Emiliano Zapata neighborhood. There is a fourth bridge from Gringo Gulch currently being constructed.
There are also two solid road bridges as well as the pedestrian-only continuation of the Malecon, which takes you along the waterfront.
What attractions are there on the island?
The island is home to the Centro Cultural Cuale, the archaeology museum, numerous quality artisan stalls and some of Vallarta’s finest restaurants, not to mention the habitat of many beautiful indigenous species of flora and fauna.
Step into the jungle in the heart of the city!
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