Mountain Magic

The road sign says another 18 kilometers but we can already sense the magic of Sierra Lago and smell the fresh blend of mountain aromas. It has only taken us two hours to get to Mascota and hot on the trail of Lake Juanacatlán, one of Jalisco´s most enchanting jewels hidden within thick verdant forest.

Impressed by how straightforward the journey has been from Puerto Vallarta, navigating the winding slopes of the Sierra Madre, we follow the well-placed road signs through the quaint town of Mascota, wich dates back to the 16th century. We make a mental note to stop on the way home and have already penciled in a return tpit stop in San Sebastian del Oeste, only 40 kilometers away. Leaving Mascota we are joined by a small herd of well-fed cows, gee´d (or rather andale´d) along by their master on horseback who´s donned in full cowboy garb and escorted by a couple of effervescent dogs.

As the sun catches their coats of honey, it is easy to see why these humble animls are reserved in India. A few of the cows turn to see what all the fuss is about and seem dissappointed (if that is possible) to note just another car with a couple of gringos, before taking a swift left turn into a grassy field. The flat plains very soon begin to steep as we keep to the stoned-paved track that leads us towards our magical destination.

Whithin a short time the sun becomes hidden by arching trees that shadow our path and leave motled-green patterns dancing on the road. Like entering the set of “A Midsummer´s Night´s Dream,” the forest begins to move and jostle in the breeze, as though joining us in our excitement and expectation. Higher and higher we climb, winding to the shape of the mountains until we chance to see the first glimpse of the paradise that would be our resting place for the wekend: Sierra Lago.

Eager to arrive and see for ourselves what so many have described as an idyllic heaven, we pick up pace and descend carefully towards the reception area where we are greeted with the sight of an inviting and charming guesthouse. It doesn´t take us long to get checked in and shown to our cabin that is decked out in traditional décor and overlooks the lake; in fact, Claudia on reception assured us that all of the cabins boast an amazing view of the lake.

The bathroom also has that oldy-worldy feel with a stand-alone enamel bath (besides slower fittings) and wooden furnishings peppered with fresh flower petals. Already we feel ripe to relax and let our weekend simply flow.

Claudia reminds us that lunch is also included in the all-inclusive package and directs us to the restaurant by the lakeside. We decline the offer of a golf cart in favor of walking and follow the path to towards the lake that rests within the lush crater of an extinct volcano. The crisp mountain air coupled by the spectacular views of Lake Juanacatlan leave us breathless and stationary in awe. We take a moment to drink in the crystal water and forested green reflection that emanates from the mirrored surface of the magical lake. As one in the presence of exceptional beauty we are humbled and dazed by the scenery.

Whaterhouse would have surely found solace here!

Still recling from the overshelming sight and unable to articulate the intense splendor before us, we move towards the restaurant that looks to be in the summerhouse in the distance. Our path is dotted with charming sculptures, ranging from neo-classical to contemporary, all gracefully placed and congruous with their inmediate surroundings. We half expect the figurines to come alive; such is the magical atmosphere at Sierra Lago.

Catching sight of the peddlelos and kayaks by the water´s edge, we start to plan tomorrow´s activities, although the thought of doing anything else but relax and absorb the stunning natural surroundings seems sacrilegious. After a delicious lunch in the lakeside restaurant that is also open to the general public we take a short walk to visit the stables found on the far side of the football pitch.

The horses are kept in immaculate condition and are available for horse riding on request or indeed topull a carriage in the event of a wedding or special event. However, it seems that today it is chance for another animal to steal the show – lamas, Sierra Lago´s adorable pair of lamas may not be quite Doctor Doolittle´s Pushmi-Pullyu, but they are certainly full of character.

We decide to take a long leisurely walk to the far side of the legendary bottomless lake (scientists and geologists are still unable to calculate how deep it is).

We head towards what seems to be a set of picturesque ruins catching the light of the sun and casting a perfect mirror image in the cool waters. They are actually the outdoor chapel where wedding and private gatherings can be organized.

Like the ruins of an ancient banquet hall, the open-air chapel is completely open at one end and surrounded by three huge walls, lined with full-size fireplaces and an area for an altar. The thought of renewing our vows suddenly becomes very appealing surrounded by this idyllic setting. We sit for a while and soak up the tranquility of this serene location.

As the afternoon draws to a close, the crisp sunshine takes refuge behind a cotton-cloud. We watch as the mist magically rolls in a top of the magnificent forested mountains that embrace the lake. We calculate we have about an hour before nightfall and start making our way back to the cabin to enjoy a dip in the lakeside outdoor Jacuzzi before dinner.

As we pass the games room and tennis courts we notice the dancing of fireflies as they gradually flicker to life with the setting of the sun. Sierra Lago certainly emits a fantastical dream-like quality. Dinner is another delightful culinary treat, this time served (as is breakfast) in the main guesthouse were we get chance to meet other guests and share the experiences of our first day. The general consensus is that Sierra Lago is a unique and spectacularly enchanting place, like stepping out of time amongst nature. As the night draws on and the board games come to a close, it is clear that the mountain air and red wine has had a soporific effect on us all. We stumble to our cabins, weary yet paradoxically invigorated by the beauty that awaits us at dawn. The day may be over but the fantasy continues: waking up in Sierra Lago is like waking up into a dream.